Brooches, and insect brooches in particular are making a comeback. Prices have been rising for these at auction over the past couple of years, frequently selling for overestimate, as the demand for brooches trickles down to the second-hand market.
Insect brooches hit headlines this week, following the death of Madeleine Albright, the former US Secretary of State. Ms Albright was famous for her bug brooch collection, owning hundreds and using them to deliver political messages. They also were a topic of news in 2019, when Lady Hale, the then President of the Supreme Court of the UK delivered her verdict on the Brexit process with an enormous tarantula brooch crawling across her suit jacket. The brooch went viral, and copycat versions were suddenly being made by everyone, including the likes of Zara, Simon Rocha, M&S, John Lewis and various makers on Etsy. At the time, the search engine Lyst reported that searches for ‘spider brooch’ shot up by 126 per cent.
Spider brooch, sold for £1,100 at Cheffins in 2018
However, it is not only spider brooches which are incredibly popular, motifs of bees, butterflies and beetles are all appearing in modern day designs. However, this is nothing new. In fact, the majority of insect brooches were created in the Victorian era, as the fascination with the natural world as a backlash against the industrial revolution led to a growth in depictions of novelty fauna and flora. The main makers for these were the likes of Lalique, Eugène Feuillâtre and Giacinto Melillo who created brooches in the shapes of bees, butterflies, beetles, spiders and dragonflies. These pieces were highly individual, some were entomologically accurate, but many were fanciful and include coloured gemstones, some of which were designed en tremblant.
Lot 172, a diamond and sapphire butterfly brooch from early 20th century - estimate £2,000 - £4,000 - available at the Cheffins Jewellery, Silver & Watches sale on 7th April.
These Victorian versions are some of the most sought-after brooches at auction. Whilst brooches in the main have been seeing consistent price rises over the past five years, insect brooches have consistently sold for well overestimate. For example, last year, we sold a ruby, diamond and enamel bee brooch for £1,000, over triple its pre-sale estimate of £300. In 2018, a spider brooch sold for £1,100, against an estimate of £500 and there appears to be no sign of this trend slowing.
Lot 133 - A diamond butterfly brooch, estimate £800 - £1,200 - available at the Cheffins Jewellery, Silver & Watches sale on 7th April.
At the next Jewellery, Silver and Watches sale, we will be offering three beautiful examples of butterfly brooches. With the highest estimate is lot 172, a 20th century sapphire and diamond example which is set to sell for £2,000 - £4,000. This is followed by lot 133, a diamond butterfly brooch with an estimate of £800 - £1,200 and then an Edwardian gem set example, which has an estimate of £200 - £400.
To view the catalogue for the Jewellery, Silver and Watches sale, please click here.